Mumbai: Colors, Flavors, Sounds, & Chaos

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I recently had the opportunity to go to Mumbai for work. During my three days there, I didn’t have a lot of time to explore, but on my free time I tried to see, do, and most importantly eat as much as possible!

Indian culture has always fascinated me, since I was a little girl. I remember when I was about six or seven, and one of my mom’s colleagues would bring me bindis from her hometown, New Delhi. They were all so beautiful! To me, they were precious, and I only wore them on special days. I’ve always loved the colors, the patterns, the fabrics… but mainly the positive energy of all the Indians I know.

Over the years, I’ve also come to love Indian food. Especially in the last two years, since I’ve committed to making healthier food, I can’t live without it! We make some kind of curry from scratch almost every week.

To be completely honest, I had heard several negative things about Mumbai. Since I usually travel alone, I’m always paranoid about where to go and what to do. But the truth is that I fell in love with this megametropolis. The mixture of colors, flavors, sounds, and the chaos that is inherent to Mumbai made for a unique experience. I’m grateful to have had that opportunity!

If you’re thinking of going to Mumbai, here are a few suggestions.

Where to stay

Like any other big city, Mumbai has a lot of different neighborhoods, each with a distinct vibe. If your objective is to stay close to great restaurants and other attractions, I recommend Nariman Point, at the southernmost part of town. This is the city’s financial district and is located on the coast of the Arabian Sea. Many of the region’s hotels and restaurants take advantage of the view! I went to Café Marina, in the Sea Palace Hotel, to watch the sunset and it was stunning.

Two cons of staying at Nariman Point are:

1. It’s the neighborhood with the most tourists;
2. Since it is the city’s financial district, it won’t give you real insight into how residents really live.

To a lot of people that won’t be a problem, but I love getting to know the city that locals know and love. If you fall into that category, I recommend staying closer to the center of the city. It’s a completely different experience from Nariman Point, but one that is definitely worth it! I stayed at the ITC Grand Central Hotel, a wonderful hotel with great service. One weird thing about it (at least to me) is that there is a “ladies floor” for women traveling alone. On that floor, the whole staff—from housekeeping to security—is comprised solely of women. On the one hand, it made me feel safe, but on the other it made me even more paranoid about security when I wasn’t on the ladies floor.

The hotel is somewhat of an oasis in the center of Mumbai, and you can’t deny the contrast between the hotel and its surroundings. In spite of that, I loved seeing the day-to-day of normal people in Mumbai, and I feel that I learned more about the city than if I had just stayed in the more touristy part.

Farther north is the international airport. There are several great hotels in that area, but I don’t recommend staying there because the airport is far removed from the city.

Where to go and what to do

It’s almost easier to say what not to do, because the city is full of incredible spots and activities! Mumbai is a very, very diverse city, with a mix of religions. The majority of people (almost 70%) are Hindu, but there is also a strong Muslim and Zoroastrian presence (look it up, it’s a fascinating religion!). I recommend visiting at least one Hindu temple. If you’re closer to the center of the city, it’s worth visiting the Shree Siddhivinayak Ganapati Temple, one of the main Ganesh temples in the the city. It’s amazing to see how Hinduism differs from Western religions, but at the same time to see how the religious experience is something that all people of faith share.

This goes without saying, but taking photos is not permitted in the temple. Also, you’ll have to take your shoes off before entering. Honestly, I thought that by looking so foreign I would feel like much more of an outsider, and that I would get weird looks. Much to contrary! It was beautiful to see people making their offerings to Ganesh and praying.

One of the spots that you can’t miss if you’re in Mumbai is the Gateway of India. This monumental structure was built between 1911 and 1942 to commemorate the visit of the British royal family. At that time India was still a colony, and the arch was meant to represent the power of the crown in the country. The view is just breathtaking! Unfortunately, the only thing that detracted from the experience for me was the amount of men asking to take selfies with me. They kind of follow you as you go around the monument, and since I’m super paranoid about safety when traveling alone, I wasn’t able to focus exclusively on the architecture and the historical significance of that place. Even with that, though, it was worth it!

A short walk away from the Gateway is the city’s main museum—are you ready for the name? The Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya Museum has impressive collections about the history of Mumbai and its main religions. At the reception you can rent audioguides in several languages. They’re kind of clunky but very helpful! It’s easy to spend several hours at the museum.

Where to eat

Many people don’t know this, but Mumbai is a fantastic destination for vegetarians! With over half a billion vegetarians—yes, with a b—the variety of vegetarian dishes is unbeatable. It’s practically impossible to eat a bad dish. Indians are experts in using spices, so whoever thinks vegetarian food is bland and boring is in for a surprise.

The best thing to do in Mumbai is to explain what you do or don’t eat and ask for the chef’s recommendations. I don’t know the name of most of the dishes I ate, but they were all incredible!

(Side note #1: tourists should not drink tap water in Mumbai. In many restaurants, it is common for a pitcher of water to be placed at the table. This is almost always tap water, so make sure to ask for a bottle. I love drinking sparkling water anyway, so that is always a safe bet.)

(Side note #2: eating a lot of foods you aren’t used to can upset your stomach, even if you’re used to the ingredients. I like to be extra cautious during trips and load up on both vitamins and probiotics. I highly recommend Travelan, a probiotic pill that you take before each meal. It’s one of those things where you can’t know how many issues it has prevented, but I have taken it in six very different countries and did not have stomach issues in any of them.)

If you’re looking to try traditional Indian food, K&K has a great menu for travelers. Lunch includes an appetizer, naan, three kebabs, two curries, rice, dessert, and a glass of wine. It’s a lot of food, so be prepared! It’s a bit pricey, but definitely worth it for the variety, quality, and ambiance.

For those who love contemporary gastronomy, Bombay Canteen is a must-see. This restaurant has received glowing reviews from critics around the world, and serves innovative versions of traditional dishes. This restaurant is only for the adventurous, though: the chef will be the one choosing all of your dishes! All you can do is choose how many dishes you’d like, and whether you prefer vegetarian food or not. The cool thing is that the staff explains each dish with lot of details, including what region the dish is originally from, how the adaptation was made, etc.

If you have some time to kill before heading to the airport, I recommend stopping by Hotel Lila for tea. Their tea selection is incredibly vast, and broken down by regions in India. It’s a good way to relax before boarding!

 

I loved the few days I had in Mumbai. It’s so alive and rich in culture, and a city that is definitely worth exploring.

Have you been to Mumbai? What did you think?

 

Stay curious,

Nati