Josie Maran's New Beta-Retinoid Pink Algae Serum Promises All the Benefits of Retinol with None of the Side Effects

Who’s never wanted all the benefits of using vitamin A with none of the side effects? I know I have. That’s exactly what Josie Maran’s new Argan Beta-Retinoid Pink Algae Serum promises, with its pro-retinol derived from pink algae.

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Vitamin A’s dreaded side effects

Vitamin A, or retinoic acid, is the only ingredient that’s been scientifically proven to prevent or revert the signs of aging. It’s most effective form is tretinoin, which can be absorbed directly by the skin without having to be converted into a different form. Retinol, on the other hand, is a derivative of vitamin A that must be converted within the skin to have an effect.

The most common side effects of using vitamin A are increases skin sensitivity, irritation, and flaking. Since retinol must be converted first, it tends to cause fewer side effects than its stronger counterpart, tretinoin. Still, these are less than desirable features of using vitamin A, so the search for the “perfect” retinol continues.

On a personal note, I’ve been using tretinoin (also known by its brand name Retin-A) for a few years as an acne treatment, and am intimately familiar with its side effects. Just like every beginner, I underestimated the potency of this ingredient, and began flaking like there was no tomorrow! Only after much trial and error and lots of patience have I been able to introduce tretinoin to my routine in a consistent manner. Even now, after three years, I can only use it every other day.

Beta-Retinoid Pink Algae Serum: First Impression

Enter Josie Maran’s newest answer to the retinol problem: beta carotene, a complex we’ve all known since childhood. Everyone instantaneously connects beta carotene –> vitamin A –> carrots –> good for eyesight. Beta carotene is a non-retinoid form of vitamin A, and one I had not seen in cosmetics before.

My curiosity was piqued when Influenster generously sent me the Argan Beta-Retinoid Pink Algae Serum. To be completely honest, I was more suspicious than curious—why was this form of vitamin A only being used in cosmetics now? Is it absorbed the same way, and is it as effective in skincare as other forms of vitamin A? I was determined to try the product and find out.

The packaging is beautiful. The serum is housed in a familiar glass bottle with a dropper, albeit in an eye-catching pink color. What truly drew my attention was the color of the serum itself—a vivid, intense orange. I was happy to see this is a fragrance-free formulation. It has a slightly earthy scent, which dissipates quickly after application.

The texture is that of a rich oil, so I recommend using it as one of the final steps in your skincare routine. In mine, it came right after my eye cream/serum and before my moisturizer.

Results and lingering questions

Since I used this serum for less than a month, I can’t speak to its longterm effects. Any product that claims to reduce or reverse the effects of aging requires a lot more time to work! Here is what I can say:

• Just like the brand promises, I did not experience any side effect normally associated with the use of retinoids.
  • During the entire month of January, I used this serum religiously and did not experience any irritation, increased sensitivity, or flaking.
• The Beta-Retinoid Pink Algae Serum is a wonderful treatment for those who want to wake up with supple, glowing skin.
  • Every time I use this serum, I wake up with happily moisturized skin. Dry skin readers rejoice! A clinical study mentioned by the brand claims that 100% of users reported “significant improvement in skin dryness immediately after application, and again after 1 week.”
• It’s a great skin protector during the winter.
  • The cold winds and dry furnace air always take a toll on my skin. I’ve noticed that since I began using this serum my skin has fared much better, which is a huge, huge win for me.
• I’m apparently part of the 3%
  • A clinical study mentioned by the brand (which I wish they made public!) claims that “in just one week, 97% of participants had an improvement in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles with zero irritation.” I used the serum for almost a month and did not notice any improvement.

As I used the Beta-Retinoid Pink Algae Serum, I had a few lingering questions:

• How is beta carotene absorbed by the skin?
• Is it as effective as other vitamin A derivatives?

As you can tell, I was very intrigued by the use of beta carotene, so I threw myself into researching its effect when applied topically. To be very clear, I am not a doctor, a board-certified dermatologist, or biochemist. However, here is what I found:

Tretinoin, which is often prescribed by dermatologists to treat acne and minimize fine lines and wrinkles, is generally produced through the hydrolysis of beta carotene. So far, so good. The problem is that since tretinoin is a more refined molecule, it’s also a lot more effective than beta carotene in treating fine lines and wrinkles. As mentioned above, tretinoin does not need to be converted to have an effect on the skin. Beta carotene, however, when applied topically, goes through the following conversion:

Beta-Carotene > Retinyl Esters > Retinol > Retinal > Retinoic Acid

It appears that only a fraction of the beta carotene applied topically is converted into retinoic acid. It’s no surprise, then, that it is much more gentle on the skin than tretinoin.

Conclusion

For those who would like to introduce vitamin A into their routine in a gentle and low risk manner, Josie Maran’s Beta-Retinoid Pink Algae Serum is an excellent choice. At $68 for 0.85 oz, it is definitely a luxury purchase, but it is a fantastic moisturizer that does not cause flaking, redness, or increased sensitivity.

If you are already used to vitamin A derivatives in your skincare, this serum will not pack enough of a punch. It could be a good fill-in during the summer if you suspend other retinoid use during the season, or if your skin is irritated, though.

I confess I’ve now gone back to using my 0.05% tretinoin cream. Still, I really enjoyed testing out this product, learning more about beta carotene, and I absolutely love the glow this serum gives my skin.

Do you use tretinoin/retinol/vitamin A user in your skincare? Have you tried or would you try the Beta-Retinol Pink Algae Serum? What did you think?

Stay curious,

Nati